Feges’ New BBQ at Spring Branch Continues Creative Menu Tradition


When Feges BBQ opened at Greenway Plaza in 2018, owners Patrick Feges and Erin Smith were at the forefront of a then-emerging trend in Texan barbecue: offering creative dishes beyond the usual trinity of the belly, pork ribs and sausage.

Feges’ foray into Caroline-style whole pork cooking and Smith’s inventive side dishes and desserts redefined what Texas, and Houston in particular, could be barbecue.

With the opening of Feges BBQ’s new location in Spring Branch, that definition extends even further, with delicious results.

Notably, the Spring Branch location is a sit-down restaurant for lunch and dinner with more options for menu creativity than the lunch-only order counter at the Greenway Plaza location (which is always open and always a great choice if you are in this area).

Of course, the usual range of smoked meats is available with the creative side dishes for which Feges BBQ is known for its Moroccan spiced carrots, chana masala and elote salad.

A selection of salads, which was one of the unique features of the Greenway location when it first opened, has been expanded with offerings including a barbecue version of a Caesar salad with charred romaine lettuce on the grill and topped with breadcrumbs, serrano vinaigrette and Monterrey jack cheese. Each salad offers the possibility of adding any of the smoked meats to your plate.

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Sandwiches are another welcome addition to the Spring Branch menu with a classic take on smoked meat (eg, minced breast), a fried chicken sandwich, and a grilled cheese breast and chili option.

With a larger dining room accommodating larger groups, Feges offers “For the Table” menu items meant to be shared. One of the flagship products is Cracklin ‘Nachos, made with fried pork skins replacing tortilla chips, which are then topped with smoked queso, sour cream, avocado cream, pickled red onions and jalapeños. .

Fried pork skin – that is, pork rinds, crackers or chicharrones – has started to appear on barbecue menus in recent years as an appetizer or side dish. It was still on the menu at the Greenway location, and Feges and Smith decided to spruce it up at Spring Branch.

“(We) just wanted to make a different variation of nachos, and we always had fried pork skins around,” says Feges.

Beyond the noticeable menu expansion at the new Feges location, if you dig a little deeper, you begin to discover subtle tributes not only to Houston’s barbecue, but to the city’s large and diverse dining scene. Bayou in general.

Classic Southern staples such as fried chicken, smoked meatloaf, and pork fat cornbread are in the spotlight.

Cracklin ‘Nachos are reminiscent of chicharron preparado, a popular street food in many Mexican American markets in Houston and Spring Branch in particular.

Korean Braised Greens are a fascinating blend of the city’s African-American soul food tradition with the flavors of the city’s Korean restaurants (again, mostly centered in the Spring Branch district).

And the chana masala side dish – a vegetarian chickpea curry or stew – is a tribute to South Asian culinary traditions.

Spring Branch’s location builds on and expands on ideas presented by Feges and Smith at Greenway Plaza – a Texan barbecue infused with dishes and ingredients that make Houston a unique culinary destination in the United States.

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